Krunk Kyrgyzstan

13:20 1 August 2008

It continues to be really hot. Today it has reached a new high of 88.7 degrees Fahrenheit in my room. I can’t even imagine how hot it is outside, it must be well over 105 because of how cool my room feels compared to outside. Despite the heat, last night was one of the most wild experiences I have had in Kyrgyzstan so far. It was my host father’s (or grandfather, whichever you want to call him) birthday and the family through a big party. There were relatives that came into town from all over the country for the celebration and I would guess there were over 40 people there.

It started off, as most Kyrgyz parties, with lots of eating and toasting. Kyrgyz parties, I have found so far, tend to go in waves of eating and dancing. Chris, the volunteer that lived with my family during last year’s PST, even came, and it was nice to have someone to speak with in English there. He is a really nice guy and the level of his Russian is superb. Of course, we were both asked to make toasts, and after his eloquent speech, I got up, and made a basic, though I thought clever toast (of course in Russian). I said “I want to tell you, Papa, in German- Viel Gluck zum Geburtstag, in Spanish, Feliz Cumpleaños, in English, Happy Birthday, and of course, in Russian HAPPY BIRTHDAY!” So after the first round of eating and toasting, people got up to dance for awhile but then settled down for another round of eating. This is where the party turned away from what I imagine is the norm for Kyrgyz parties.

Papa Kolya (my host Papa) came out of the house dressed in a diaper, a bonnet, a pacifier, and was carrying a baby bottle filled with vodka (Why oh why didn’t I have my camera out!?!?). Of course this was greeted by a host of cheers and laughs, and it was certainly something I had never expected. He played the role for a while, talking about how he was new to this world and didn’t understand anything, and it was all a huge joke. If that wasn’t enough, his niece filled a hat with different actions, and everyone went around the table drawing and doing what they said. I was lucky that the one I drew was merely to sing a song, of course I chose “Happy Birthday”. Others weren’t so lucky and I saw two other babushkas (grandmothers) made to kiss each other, an older gentleman fill a plate with vodka and drink it, my host sister get up on a chair and crow like a rooster, and to top it off, another babushka down vodka from the bottle (the grimace on her face was painful even to me).

After this silly game, the dancing resumed, and I was thrust into the most awkward dance since middle school. This middle age lady grabbed me and started slow dancing with me and jabbering machine-gun fire fast Russian in my ear. Thankfully the song was only about 15 minutes long (I jest, it was only about 6) but it was incredibly funny and awkward and embarrassing as we became the center of attention (I think my host sister took a picture so I will show you when I get it). I eventually went to bed at the same time as Chris, around 11:30 or so, but the party was still going strong and I woke up around 2:00 when it had finally died down somewhat. All in all, a memorable and unique experience.