A Solemn Occasion

22:15 28 January 2009

I forgot to mention the reason for the previously reported slaughter that I took part in. The man who would have been my host father died two years ago today. On account of this, I got to experience first-hand the Muslim side of Kyrgyzstan. My entire immediate host family returned back to the village for the memorial, and a large number of friends, extended family, and other people who knew him came for an elaborate guesting. This meant that I assisted my family for several hours the night before and today I got up early to help them prepare the table and prepare.

The ceremony began with an imam who came and recited the longest Koran passage I have ever heard. My host sister's middle daughter, two year old Al-Suu, plopped into my lap and sat like an angle for the twenty minutes he took. The clear nasal tenor of the imam pierced the still silence of the room and created an incredibly beautiful and haunting ambience for the most contemplative moments of the day. As the imam continued on, the entire room slowed with quiet reverence and I saw some of the most poignant displays of emotion in Kyrgyz people that I have experienced in country. My host sisters' and mothers’ eyes were red and pregnant with tears as they sat listening to the passage; and many of the other ejes (older women) were openly crying. The men sat stoically, but it was obvious that the emotion of the day overtook even some of them. Despite the sadness of the day, the feeling and honesty of it left me feeling that it was a beautiful experience.

Following the recitation, the typical Kyrgyz practices of eating, drinking, and beshbarmaking (the ritual surrounding the consumption of the national mutton and noodle dish by hand) began. While I was unable to attend the latter portion of it due to work and a new English Club I started for adults, I was really glad that I was able to attend the religious side of the day and witness the chilling but beautiful ceremony.